Written by Mia back in July during our stay in the lovely atoll of Tahanea.

We arrived in Tahanea mid morning after a light winded night sail. At one point to get the timing right, we just took down the sails and drifted. We timed the pass perfectly and we entered the pass with two other family boats, Luminesce and Debonair. We compared notes and Luminesce entered 30 minutes before the tide change, they had three knots of current against them. Debonair followed and at ten minutes before, had one and a half knots against them. When it was our turn, it was five minutes past the turning tide and we had half a knot of current with us. It became very quickly clear how in the passes of the Tuamotus as in life itself, timing is everything.

The forecast showed that we could expect some strong winds in the days to come so we motored across the atoll to an anchorage where the palm trees would offer us a little protection from wind and waves. Tahanea is a national park and this is the prettiest water we have seen yet. There are not enough adjectives for this paradise! As we traveled from one end of the atoll to the other, we marvelled at the turquoise water especially where the bommies broke the surface along the way. All of a sudden the cobalt water appears to be brownish where the coral grows up just a half a meter beneath the surface. Moving across these atolls requires careful navigation and as many eyes on watch as possible. Once we were safely anchored, we spent lots of time in the water. There were beautiful coral heads nearby and even took the dinghies out to the closer bommies to snorkel. The rainbow of pretty fish are enchanting and on the way back we chatted about our favourites and the personality they seem to show.

We enjoyed a nice little neighbourhood of three family boats in Tahanea. We were invited to Luminesce for coffee and doughnuts one Sunday morning. The kids got along very well and there is no sound nicer than throng of giggling kids and it has to be said that the adults very much enjoyed their coffee chat as well. Itchy Foot hosted a games night that featured Qwirkle, Scrabble, Ali Baba Buckaroo and Apples to Apples complete with bursts of more laughter. And we went to Debonair to enjoy some dinghy sailing. What a lovely feeling! We even did some boat school ashore together where the kids mapped out one of the motus. They paced out the perimeter and made calculations and notes. They drew up proper charts and then they finally buried treasure for future boat kids to discover. Please contact us if you want the coordinates!

We attended a birthday party ashore for Arlo, a great guy and one of Teo’s favourites. Debonair throws a great party, complete with a scavenger hunt where the two teams of kids built boats, made art and recycled  and upcycled stuff from the beach. We munched on popcorn, homemade limeade, mango cake and enjoyed our time relaxing around the bonfire. The kids had a fabulous time and no one was keen to go back home and at one point there was even nighttime swimming, lying on their backs staring at the stars. It was a very memorable day.

We stayed in this paradise with lovely company for a little over a week. We watched the locals farm the wild coconuts for copra and light the husks into bonfires along the the shoreline. They were a family from a nearby motu stopped by to check in with us and take notes about the boat and the occupants. On a clear, calm day I climbed the mast for the first time and it was glorious to peer at the turquoise water and from up there the reef sharks were very clear as they cruised around. Teo showed his independence and took the kayak out on his own to visit his friends. He also staked a claim to a little coral reef behind Itchy Foot and he kept showing everyone “Teo’s reef”.

Once the weather calmed down we moved to an anchorage on the other side of the atoll and went ashore to a gorgeous set of islands. We had a picnic and great explore and even swam between the islands. It is always a special feeling to swim to a neighbouring island for an explore. There was such a pronounced feeling of really getting away from it all in this place. There was special sand that was made up of tiny perfect discs and lots of hermit crabs and sea birds that lay their eggs totally exposed on the sand, a sign of trust and little experience of danger.

Before we left Tahanea, Itchy Foot returned to our first anchorage to retrieve a forgotten hat and we found that the father of the family with a camp there had kept it safe for us. It is a wonderful feeling when human nature is generous. We have a rule or least a tradition for birthdays and anniversaries. We try our best not to be on the move for special dates. Jon’s birthday was celebrated in Tahanea with an afternoon in the hammock, handmade cards and gifts and a bubbles and bonfire dinner on the beach, complete with cookie cake. Tahanea holds some very happy memories for us.

Written by Mia back in June. Just to remind you, we are not currently in the Marquesas! We are in Tahiti as this gets posted. So this is a few months old. Sorry for playing catch-up!

The weather was not favorable to move on and so we got to add another anchorage to our list on Nuku Hiva. This time it was a gorgeous open bay on the northern coast called Anaho. There is no road access but there are a few people living here. They have some fruit orchards and a little church, although it didn’t seem to have services, even on the Sunday we were there. There are also some tables and a bar on the pretty little beach which we heard used to be a small cafe. We were sharing this bay with a dozen or so other boats.

We spent a lot of time in the water here and did some amazing snorkeling. A little silver fish adopted me, And followed me around for 30 minutes or so and I named him “Flash”. It is wonderful to just pause and watch a little fish community on the reef. As you spend some time with them, you start to see their personalities come out, some are definitely more curious than others while some are very shy and some kinds of fish are always hanging out together.  On a snorkeling excursion to the other end of the bay, we spotted lots of manta rays. They are amazing creatures and so graceful as they fly through the water. We swam with some that had a 2 meter wing span. A little research tells us these were only medium sized, although it didn’t feel like it when we were swimming together.

Ashore, we had a good couple of wanders although the mozzies kept us from hanging out too long in the evenings. Teo is amazing at spotting treasures and found us some beautiful cowry shells. One day we walked over the hill to Hatiheu Bay which does have road access and a couple of shops. We visited this place under odd conditions. The Aranui was in town. The Aranui is a supply ship that also has tourist cabins, it is a bit of a hybrid cruise ship that brings lots of supplies and tourists to the islands. We have seen lots of locations change dramatically while cruise ships visit and this was no exception. We cashed in though and had a lovely meal with live entertainment. Our walk over the hill to and from Hatiheu was muddy! It had rained a lot but it was fun to slip and slide and we were delighted to pick lots and lots of mangoes on the way. We met some horses and shared with them, too. We also had to giggle as we heard loud music approaching long before the cowboy on horseback with a ghetto blaster on his shoulder and his dog trailing behind came into view. Our feet all needed a good wash before going back to the boat. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Anaho Bay.

Written by Mia many months ago. This all happened back in June in the Marquesas. We are slowly catching up. Sorry for the confusion for out of sync posts. Such is life with 3rd world internet!

As much as we enjoyed Taiohae, the “big city” of Nuku Hiva with a financial district (two banks) and a educational sector (an adorable school with child made wind chimes made of shells and a public library that offers free Tahitian dance lessons) we had to move on and motored around to our second anchorage. As we entered Hakatea aka Daniels Bay, we were surrounded by tall, dramatic cliffs. As we anchored it seemed like we were surrounded on all sides.

We were anchored right next to Nicko on Urchin. One of our favorite things about this lifestyle is the variety of neighborhoods and being able to choose neighbors. Nicko is lovely and we shared some wonderful evenings. He was teaching Teo some chords on his ukulele and one evening we even organized a concert but it was just us so we were performing and spectating. In the bay we enjoyed lots of swimming and had a cruisers meetup on the beach with a bonfire and the sunsets made incredible shadows on the cliffs.

While we were there Nicko took us on an adventure. He had befriended some locals and had been hunting wild boar with them. That was an incredible story! We visited them in their hut and admired the detailed perfection of the place. It feels like even the best film set designers could not have dreamt up a cooler hunting hut. It was adorned with barrels as tables, skins, conch shells and all the skulls with names and dates on them. As we arrived they were “picking” pamplemousse with a tool that resembled a very long lacrosse stick. They had a few horses tethered outside and dogs that help them on the hunts.

We walked a path through a dozen homes with perfectly manicured gardens. These people clearly care deeply for their homes and they all are so beautiful. This valley is a special place. At one point, before the French arrived, 20,000 people lived here, now it is less than twenty homes. The path went on and on and we saw the ruins of the civilization that had been there. The people living there today are their descendants and very proud. We met many of them on our way, and the most memorable were two young guys with knife holsters (Teo was very impressed) and lots of tattoos, even on their faces. The Marquesan tattoo tradition is truly amazing and beautiful to behold. I smell another blog post.

We followed the path for about two hours using the trail and stones as steps and even crossing the river a few times. We were rewarded with an amazing waterfall. We shared the baguette the guys shared with us and some fresh fruit and then jumped in! Living on a boat, we do lots and lots of swimming, but there is something very special about lots and lots of fresh water! We loved our swim, even if we had to share the water with a good sized eel. He didn’t seem interested in us but the shrimp came over to see if we were food. We swam into the cave on the side of the waterfall. What an enchanting place!

On our way back we were invited to have some refreshments made by a little old lady who Nicko helped by transporting a stove in his dinghy the day before. We demolished a whole pile of fritters and two bottles of fresh lime presse. Oh, how wonderful it is to have a taste of France with all the goodness of fresh fruit. On our way back to our dinghies we bought some fruit from a couple who have a little orchard and offer meals for tourists who visit the waterfall. As we were picking out our fruit, I wish we had gotten video of the woman hacking down the stalk of bananas, because she took down the whole tree! Another video worthy moment we missed was a guy shredding coconut for his cats. I have never seen someone move as fast as he did as he threw the bowl down and dashed up the street. Only then did we register that the phone in the phone box was ringing! I think we have succeeded in showing Teo there are lots of ways in this world to live.

Written by Jon:

The plan was to leave early, before 10am to have plenty of time to get safely anchored in a bay on the west coast of Tahuata before dark. So of course we actually left nearer 11. The stern anchor was well and truly stuck at the bottom of the sea, which I guess is a good thing, but not so helpful when you need to lift it from bottom of the sea by hand into the dinghy. In the end we decided to stick a float on the end of it and pick it up from the bow of Itchy Foot after we lifted the main anchor.

The sail across to Tahuata was nice, but just in-between two points of sail. Between what?

Right, imagine that the front the boat is zero degrees. The right hand side would be 90 degrees. And directly behind would be 180 degrees, then back around to zero on the other side. Well, our course to Tahuata would put the wind about 130 degrees behind us. If both sails are out on the same side the head sail (at the front) is directly behind (as far as the wind is concerned) the main sail. So the headsail doesn’t get much wind and keeps on collapsing and filling, not good for the boat, sails or nerves. If we sail with the wind slightly forwards, say 120 degrees, we’re fine but 130 is too deep.  So you can shift the head sail out onto the other side using a pole to hold the end of it out, but then 130 degrees is not far enough downwind – ideally we need the wind about 145 degrees or higher to sail with a downwind configuration.

So, our ideal course was neither one thing nor the other. After a few hours of sailing we were just off the coast of Tahuata and needed to head downwind to clear the headland. As it was just a short distance we decided to just furl the headsail and run dead downwind under the main alone. Twenty minutes later we were around the headland and being on the leeward side of the island the wind started to drop as expected. We popped on the engine but still had the full main pinned out to the side with a preventer and no headsail. The wind was light and getting lighter, the wind direction was also shifting around a bit behind the headland. Just at that moment one of the fishing lines let out and excited ‘wiiizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz’ and something big had clearly taken the lure.

Wanting to quickly deal with the fish and make sure the hook was set, Jon stuck the boat onto compass bearing autopilot (so he didn’t have to worry about course too much) and slowed the engine to make the fish easier to fight. It was big, really big and gave a fairly big jump. So started the five minute fight trying to bring this very big silver fish to the back of the boat. Let it run, then when when it stops reel it back in fast, then run again and reel again, repeat. Eventually we get the monster to the back of the boat and use the hooked gaff to lift it onboard. A HUGE Wahoo (Acanthocybium Solanderi – if you must know). It weighted about 50 pounds (20kg) or roughly the weight of a full suitcase. It was taller than Teo, reaching from the deck to Jon’s armpit (130cm).  Jon killed it with a couple of shots of cheap gin to the gills and opened up his nice, sharp, long filleting knife. And just at that moment the wind hit.

The wind speed went from about 10knots to about 30knots in an instant and went forward. The main powered-up. The autopilot/helm couldn’t cope. Itchy Foot went right over on her side as she spun to windward and without a headsail to balance her she just kept going. It was over in about three seconds, Teo being a smart boat kid just sat down on the cockpit floor nicely out of danger whatever happens. Tina and Mia held on. Jon went sliding across the (now 60 degree) aft deck with a 50lb fish in one hand a filleting knife on the other. Thankfully Itchy Foot is well protected with lots of strong guardrails and other things to hold onto and our centre cockpit is a long way from the sea so everyone was fine. As we turned into the wind the boat sat-up. We revved up the engine, released the preventer and got control of the main while motoring to windward. As the anchorage was just a mile or two down the coast we decided to motor the rest of the way while Jon tackled the fish.

There was enough fish to feed about 40 people. It took about half an hour to fillet it and we ended up bagging it into about ten family sized portions. Half of those went into the fridge and freezer to be eaten by Itchy Foot and the other half were shared among the other boats in the anchorage the next morning.

We arrived in the dark, but the entrance to the bay is easy, open and the moon helped guide us in. It is sandy and not too deep so very easy to get the anchor set and no concerns about dragging allowed us to sleep well through the night. The next morning we pottered around Itchy Foot, taking a swim to see the fishes on the nearby coral. Just before lunch a friendly guy from a nearby boat called ‘Today’ paddled over to say ‘G’day!’ The skipper of the boat came over a little later on to say hi, collect some fresh fish and invite us round for drinks that evening.

During the afternoon Tina took a swam into the shore and checkout the beach. After a short stop she returned to the boat looking a little spooked. It turns out there is a local guy living on the beach who is a little ‘strange’ and not very welcoming. He wasn’t nasty or mean, but a touch odd and she didn’t feel very welcome. Oh well, there was lots of nice swimming and snorkelling to be had beside Itchy Foot and along the cliffs.

That evening we headed over to ‘Today’ for drinks and ended up staying for dinner. We combined resources and chefs to produce a wonderful meal of fish tacos, spicy and perfect! Rum and great conversations flowed and a nice night was had by all.

The next day we spent around Itchy Foot, swimming and enjoying the clear waters. Tina decided to enrol the support of a Italian guy on a nearby boat the took our kayak around the headland to the village we sailed past on the coast. By all accounts a lovely little place but a much longer kayak than expected so they hitched a lift back on a yacht they met shore.

Deciding that we needed to pickup the pace a little bit on our time in the Marquesas we set sail that evening, just after sunset we had a nice dinner and then set sail for a night passage to the next island in the group and our first real ‘town’.  Nuku Hiva.

Written by Jon:

Living aboard full-time is an emotional see-saw. It’s not a roller coaster, because it’s really not that extreme. They say they cruising makes the highs, higher and the lows, lower. This maybe true, or maybe cruising life, being so full of challenge and success has more contrast and saturation. And maybe in land life, at least for many of us, we try to remove as much potential for failure as possible; taking less risks, less challenges but by doing so we also remove achievements. Fewer failures, fewer successes, fewer lows, fewer highs. Obviously that is not true for all in land life, many people manage to fill their lives with adventure, passion and challenge without ever touching a boat.

We arrived in Fatu Hiva fatigued yet awake and energised. We timed the landfall perfectly, and were rewarded with sunrise on the east coast of the island as we passed it volcanic peak towering out of the sea, overflowing with greenery of all shades. Turning around to the west and leeward side of the island we scurried around Itchy Foot tidying the decks and preparing to drop the anchor. The anchorage in Fatu Hiva stood out, there must have been over 15 yachts in the bay with some very high masted super yachts at the back of the pack. Thankfully, as we motored into the bay another yacht motored out so after asking an early riser where they had been anchored we dropped the hook in the vacant spot.

On a normal vacation, this is the equivalent of dropping the bags in the hotel room. The moment where you maybe hang up the stuff mostly likely to crease but then quickly adjourn to the bar or the pool to wash away the travel fatigue.

Cruising is a little different. The dinghy on the foredeck needed to be untied, flipped and dropped into the sea. Then the items under the dinghy needed to be stowed and sorted. The engine for the dinghy needed to be removed from it’s bracket on the back, but the screws had locked tight so out came the toolkit. Thirty minutes later we are closer but need to fill the outboard fuel tank with petrol and so go digging for that. Next, we need to retest the anchor has set properly as this bay is notorious for high gusts and dragging yachts. Oh, and everyone around us as stern anchors out, so once more back into the stern locker to the very bottom and dig out the stern anchor last used in Spain. Rig that up with line from the anchor locker and motor it in the dinghy out behind the boat. Haul the line back in and make it fast. But the outboard engine is over-rev’ing in idle so back out with the toolkit. OK now it is lunchtime and everyone is a bit grumpy so let’s quickly make a lunch to take ashore. Below decks the boat is being prepared for life on anchor, the salty windows are being washed and the hatch covers are being replaced. Trash is being collected and sorted to go ashore with us and the bathroom is being cleaned. Now we are ready to go ashore!

Here is the thing about blog posts and cruising. That whole extended run-on paragraph could easily be condensed to ‘we sorted out the boat and then went ashore’. And you, dear reader, would not see the frustrations of cruising. These are not huge problems, they are minor, but at the end of our ‘long-haul flight to the sun’ not being able to just ‘pop down to the pool’ takes it’s toll.

But what a reward we had ashore! There are really only two settlements on the island, both tiny and both beautiful. Colourful little houses in their own plots of perfectly manicured gardens, overflowing with fruit trees and flowers, stretch along the one road town up into the hills behind. We walked along the road, into the hills with the goal of stretching our legs more than anything else. Locals greeted us with warm, wide smiles, Mia was given a beautiful bowl made from a coconut with no expectation of anything in return. Later a guy working out of the back of his truck gave us a beer and would except nothing in return. As we passed a house, Tina went to pick up some fallen fruit and the owner insisted we pick two lovely Pamplemousse (not sure about the spelling, but it is somewhere between a grapefruit and a large orange – delicious) directly from the tree. A wonderful welcome to their little island.

Local people were out and about, busy with their day and preparing for the highlight of the the month, the cargo ship was coming! Every three weeks the cargo ship stops in this bay and small barges bring goods, supplies and a handful of tourists to the village. Today was extra special as many of the local people were sending their handicrafts on the cargo ship to Tahiti for an annual crafts fare. Luckily for us the cargo ship also serves as a travelling bank and as the island lacks ATM or bank we has a two hour opportunity to change dollars to Polynesian French Francs.

We stood for awhile and watched the locals busy in the their activities, exchanging stories with other cruising and tips for other islands to visit. Listening to a group of locals play music and share delicious chocolate cake with the strangers from boats. And the kids all played together and even enlisted some locals into a game of chase. The sun set and we retreated to Itchy Foot for a simple dinner, a beer and an early night.

The next day was a morning of boat chores. With Tina sleeping in the main saloon we loaded the forepeak up with sails and storage, things we may need for the passage and also extra food or supplies. As we were now on anchor most of the time we could safely put most of that stuff back into storage and free-up half the forepeak for Tina to sleep in. The whole process, along with several other boat jobs took from 8am until about 2pm with a break for lunch and it was still only half done. With stuff spread out all over the boat we agreed that so long as we all had somewhere to sleep then we should get off the boat in the afternoon. Tina also jumped in the water and made a stab at cleaning the hull of Itchy Foot which was covered in algae. In the afternoon we headed ashore and took a walk up to a nearby waterfall. On the way we met a lovely guy and fellow cruiser, David, who regaled us with stories from Hollywood and life as a directors agent.

After a refreshing swim at the bottom of a towering waterfall we slowly picked our way back down the hill towards the village and the prospect of a meal prepared by a local family. For a reasonable fee they invite people into their homes and cook dinner, in our case it was about 15 cruisers and 7 kids who descended on their home and feasted like kings. BBQ chicken (from the garden), stewed goat (from the hill behind the house), marinated fish (from local waters), breadfruit fries (from the back yard) and rice. Then home again for another early night, cruisers midnight is 9pm.

Day three was almost entirely spent cleaning and fixing Itchy Foot. The second half of the project of storing and sorting our mountains of stuff took Jon the entire day. Mia and Teo did boat school in the morning and then Mia spent the afternoon helping Jon and cleaning the bathroom and kitchen. Tina met up with a group from another boat and hiked from one side of the islands to another for the afternoon.

Sometime in the morning the battery charger failed, turning itself of due to low voltage from the generator we have onboard. The generator normally puts out 220-240 volts, but was now putting out 190 volts – not good. Jon doesn’t know much about generators, but knows enough to look in the service manuals and other books to discover that when the voltage drops without any load being applied it’s not good.

We can theoretically live without a generator, but not easily. Our solar panels do a good job of keeping us topped up with power and on a 12 hours of sun kind of day we are mostly OK. The extra we need if it is cloudy we could take from running the main engine to charge the batteries. It’s noisy and takes a lot more fuel, but it works. The main problem with no generator is that we have a 220v water maker, so no generator equals no water maker. Right here that’s not too much hardship, there is a tap on the shore and we can run jerry cans backwards and forwards. But the next group of islands is the Tuamotus and if there is anywhere in the world you need a water maker it would be there. The islands have very little water and it is entirely from rain catchment, we’re in the dry season so there would be none to spare for us. Basically, as soon as we got there we would have to leave again to Tahiti. The one comment we keep reading about the Tuamotus is ‘don’t rush them’. Hmm.

So the next day Jon spent trying to fault find and fix the generator. Thanks to some expert tutelage from Jage, a fellow cruiser who is both a great guy and also a genius with anything mechanical or electrical, trying to fix the generator is a lot less scary than when we started. The workshop manual states four potential causes of low voltage when under no-load.

1. Low motor RPM – I don’t have a tool to test this and neither did anyone in the anchorage.
2. Faulty rotating diodes – no a clue what these are or where they are, oh and no spares.
3. Faulty windings – won’t get fixed until New Zealand – very expensive.
4. Excitation Capacitor faulty – wait a minute, we have one of those!

So given that Jon had no way of fixing or even testing three out of four of the potential problems, he chose to fix the only one he could. Guess what?! It worked! So after several hours of frustrated and muffled cursing from the engine room we had a working generator again and the ability to make water and charge batteries!  Hurrah!

Day four was also a laundry day. We were told we could trade flip-flops with the locals for a load of laundry but we didn’t have any spare. So instead we filled large rubber buckets on the back with detergent and 4 weeks worth of dirty clothes and bedding and let the soak for the morning. Just before lunch Tina, Mia and Teo headed ashore to rinse them all at the communal fresh water tap near the dock in town. It’s hard work, stamping on buckets of clothes but worth it to save us money and footwear. They came back in the afternoon and hung everything out on lines all over the boat – Itchy Foot was looking a little like the laundry boat in the anchorage.

Just before sunset Tina headed ashore to play volleyball on the grass with the locals and a few other cruisers. It would seem the Volley Ball is taken seriously on the islands and they all seemed very proficient. There was also a comic rule, if you are the last person to touch it before it goes into the harbour, you are the one going to get it – clothes and all!. Suffice to say the Tina came back a little damp. Jon also headed ashore, armed with a camera and a tripod, hoping to catch some of the majestic beauty the island has to offer. The sunset streams into the bay, over the boats on anchor and up onto the beach. It would be a shame to leave this delightful and beautiful little spot without catching a few photos.

We decided to stay for one more day, taking a moment to relax with little more planned than a trip to the local shop to hunt for flour and eggs. In the morning Tina headed off with friends on their dinghy around to the nearest bay and village, returning with 5 pamplemousse. Mia, Jon and Teo decided to go for a snorkel in the morning, unfortunately the wind picked up as we got in the water and Teo got trapped under the dinghy. He panicked, understandably, and dropped his face mask. Jon tried to dive for it but being anchored in 13-15m of water it was beyond him. Teo was quite upset as the mask was very good and a perfect fit, we spent a while finding the right size in Bonaire and it wasn’t very cheap. But, we have a spare and I’m sure we’ll find it’s equal when we get to Tahiti.

The shopping was a success, the only shop in the village had what we needed and quite a bit more besides. The prices were high, but not for the basics like flour, eggs and milk which we believe are price controlled by France. Just don’t buy Pringles! The trip to the shop was also an excuse to look for a few animal friends Teo had made over the last few days. All the locals seem to keep a selection of animals, pigs, chickens, goats seem to be the favourites but there was also many cats and dogs to be found. Teo made friends with a very cute little kitten up the hill, so we went looking for him again. No luck, but we did find three little pigs tied to the verge on the side of the road and they were very friendly!

We left the next morning, headed for Tahuata and the promise of a nice quiet anchorage with golden sands.