Day 13: Three down; one to go.

Fishing is not my strong suit, despite my epic beard and silly Tilley hat I’ve little (no) experience in fishing, either on a boat nor sitting in the drizzle by a brook. So I bought a book on the subject, the front cover had a picture of a man with a beard, silly hat and big fish… so that should help you narrow it down.

What appealed to me about this particular book was that the author focused on the most effective way to feed people fish on boats. It’s not about sport fishing, to the extent that he doesn’t even recommend using a rod and reel, preferring to trawl with a hand line. Armed with my new found knowledge I wandered into a little fishing shop selling to commercial fishermen in Spain’s Tuna fishing capital – Barbate.

The proprietor took one look at me and promptly laid out the everything I would need with almost little or no prompting. Pausing only briefly at the end of our conversation to inform me that I would catch tuna with this, no problem. For around 80 euros I got, 50m of 150lb (75kg) monofilament, a yoyo (hand lining reel), three 8inch lures, high quality swivels, a Finish filleting knife (they make the best, so i learned) and a few other technical doodads.

The setup is fairly simple. Take a large squid lure with a big hook on a wire leader. Attach swivels to either end of 10m of monofilament (the strong the better). Attach on end of the monofilament line to the leader of the lure. Attach the other end to 5m of very strong end stretchy shock cord which is tied to somewhere on the back of the boat. Throw the above into the sea. Wait. Wait. Panic ‘cos you caught a fish!

The challenge I discovered is what to do next. Getting the fish back onboard requires a gaff (hook on stick), killing the fish requires squirting gin into their gills (surprisedly quick way to go), then you need to cut it up. After my first attempt to fillet a fish on the back of a moving boat Mia bought me a pair of cut proof butchers gloves.

Anyway, all this worked well, we caught fish, it was tasty and huge. Then we left Cape Verdes and in three days we lost three of our four lures. The first was a broken line – something big applied more than 75kg of force to the line. The second was a broken metal wire – I’ve no idea what that breaks at, so I’m thinking the crimped loop in the end pulled out. Finally, something really big bet the cheaper metal connectors that I picked up at a less reputable tackle shop – but still check the photo!

In response I upped my game. The final lure went into the sea with three 75kg lines on the whole run – triple the breaking load. Bring it on. We even attached an empty 5lt water bottle at the end of the line – I was inspired by Jaws.

The good news is that within a few hours we had a bite and a nice little 3kg mahi-mahi was our for the eating. Kevin will be cooking her up for dinner tonight and whatever monster was out there is still out there.

In other news we knocked off another 150 miles in the last 24 hours.

Day 12: Food preparations

There are as many strategies for provisioning and food preparations as there are boats crossing the Atlantic. Everyone seems to have very strong opinions and are not shy to share them. Some boats leave each person to fend for themselves, others live off tins and dry food only, but most plan either to cook underway or prepare in advance and freeze or vacuum seal things. Thank goodness we fixed the freezer in Addaya in July, we filled it!

Like most of the other family boats, Tina and Katrina and I did a few rounds of shopping. We went to Carrefour early to stock up our stores and to shop for things for cooking. We went to the market for eggs, fruit and vegetables. Both delivered these things straight to the boat. When we had everything put away, we went back for snacks and treats to fill all the storage spaces. We were full to bursting and we still weren’t sure we had enough, because enough also means the correct combination of things.

We started out cooking on board but there are a few problems with this, we have a space shortage, the freezer takes a few days to freeze something solid, and the space where we could prep food is in the main thoroughfare of the boats and Jon and Kevin were fixing things so they were often needing to get through. To save time Tina and I booked an AirBnB to use their kitchen, and while we were there, the washing machine, too. We were invited to use Gus and Elena’s home. It was beautiful and well stocked and the roof top terrace was a giant drying rack. Tina and I made nine different meals for five people and froze them in their freezer. We washed three loads of laundry and all the while had a wonderful time chatting to each other and to Gus who kept things moving by pouring us cava and entertained us. It was fabulous 🙂

Cooking and freezing meals is great for passages and has been working really well. We just choose something from the freezer in the morning. Another thing we prepared before we left was bread in a bag. (It is much easier to measure flour, baking powder and other ingredients when the boat isn’t moving much.) We have been using these almost daily and first the smell of fresh bread and then the taste of the finished product really boost the mood!

We keep bragging about how well we eat and it is largely because of this prep work.

By the way, we clocked another 140 nautical miles today. The sea got a bit rougher when we turned west and we are feeling it, especially when we try to cook something or do the washing up because things are sliding around everywhere.

Day 11: TNT Burger Boat

Another 150 nautical miles behind us and the wind and the waves seem to be coming from the same direction so the ride is a lot more comfortable. We have been fishing but are now down three lures in three days! Jon is determined to get a photo of the sea monster that can chew crimping and snap steel line. We should have stocked up on lures in Mindelo!

Comment from Jon: Whatever is taking our lures is big enough to break 75kg line, steel wire leader crimps and metal swivel shackles respectively. With one big lure left we’re tripling up everything… 225kg of lines. Bring it on.

We continue to have gourmet galley conditions and last night was another highlight! Teo and Tina had opening night of TNT Burger Boat and this is sure to take the world by storm! We had veggie burgers with homemade chips of butternut squash, carrots and potatoes and homemade tatziki. It was incredibly delicious!

Last night we had a magical dolphin show! It was amazing to watch them play at the bow covered in phosphorescent algae, it was like watching stardust. We could see them glowing silver under the water as they swam from one side of the bow to the other and back again. It was a clear sky filled with stars and we saw shooting stars as well. We were mesmerized.

This morning was quiet, but we had breakfast together and have been in contact with Freja, Gorm den Gamle and Anyway. We are now heading WEST and Jon is celebrating reaching the 13 degree latitude by breaking out a Hawaiian shirt, stay tuned for the picture!

Day 10: Surprise number 1

Today we clocked 100 nautical miles and are also currently in visual view of our three buddy boats. It’s nice to have their lights keeping us company at night. The wind was a bit light overnight and the sails complained a little. We like to have HAPPY sails and a HAPPY Arthur (our autohelm).

The sun kept us company most of the afternoon and we had another very short dolphin visit. We will hold out for a longer visit tomorrow, and we also hope to catch another fish.

Before we left Santa Cruz, we agreed to each plan a surprise. It is something I learned from a friend that skis across Greenland every spring…thanks Bjørn! Tina unveiled her surprise this afternoon. She brought beads and cord and letters to make bracelets. It was fun and kept us amused for hours.

For dinner we tucked into the freezer and made veggie lasagna that was out of this world! Before we left, we used Gus and Elena’s kitchen to make and freeze meals for our trip. It was a fun and exhausting day and it is paying off now!

Teo used the VHF radio to warn the other boats to look out for squalls. He called them, “little storms that sneak up on you”. Everyone promised they would pay close attention.

We did a great school session this morning and Teo was singing a song that was mostly, “school is fun, and I love it” which is music to this mamma’s ears.

A little short of wind so not very many miles in the last 24h, but we’re getting there!

Day 9: Hanging in There, and Hanging On

We logged 130 nautical miles and our little fleet have been sticking together. It’s nice to hear how everyone is getting on and Hakuna Matata play us their song every day. Plus the kids check on each other on the VHF radio. We had a nice sunshiny afternoon and there was some napping because none of us slept great the night before. We saw some sea birds and continue to try to help with the research (www.birdingaboard.org) but it is hard to get decent photographs. We also had a micro visit from dolphins, we believe they are coming back tomorrow. Also, the fish are waiting for tomorrow which is nice because it is too rolly to clean them…

I would like to share Teo’s radio call just now. “This is Itchy Foot, we are having a party onboard with flashing lights and everything. Everyone is invited. I repeat, nevermind. OVER”. I am not sure the RYA would approve, but it is a start.

I think everyone has been stealing a little extra sleep, keeping your balance with all the rocking and rolling takes its toll… This morning we listened to loud music and Jon made bread, yum yum, the smell of fresh baking bread is divine!! We are working our way through the melon carnage so it was banana pancakes and Elvis specials (grilled banana and peanut butter sandwiches) for lunch. I don’t think any of us will be gaunt by the time we arrive.

Attached is a picture Teo drew of all the boats in out little fleet, Barbados 50, Fleet 3.

Day 8: On your marks…again…

We really liked what we saw of the Cape Verde islands, and it was wonderful to enjoy a taste of Africa. Also it was amazing to have so many kids around for Teo to play with, he spent lots of time with the kids from Gorm den Gamle and Freya. They visited each other, had movie dates and we even went to the beach. When it was hard to match Danish and English they played LEGO or Minecraft or did some fishing. And we also finally connected with kids from Emerald Bay, Blue Zulu and Dana de Mer which was great because English made it easier for Teo to talk to kids his own age as well. We had another trip to the beach and we had a ball swimming with the dogs and making survival bracelets. Teo is spending time with so many amazing kids!

As much as we liked the place and all the fun we had, the wind forecast was good and it was time to go! We arranged to leave with four other boats (Freya, Gorm den Gamle, Anyway and Hakuna Matata) at noon, our Atlantic Odyssey, Take Two. Emerald Bay, Blue Zulu and Dana de Mer had similar plans and we hope to see more of them over there!

Our first day was mostly unsettled winds, confused seas and more bumps and bruises. It is very nice to have contact with the other boats and we spoke about sail configuration and our routes. It’s fun to be in contact and at night to see everyone’s lights. The unsettled sea state also pushed the melons too far and they beat up all the other fruit and veg in the net. A papaya took it particularly badly and exploded everywhere. The melons have been separated and are having a time out until they can learn to behave and play nicely with others.

We had some wind shifts in the night but are back on a good course this morning. We have just put out our fishing line and checked our progress which is drum roll please…130 nautical miles in the last (a little less than) 24 hours

A week in Mindalo, Cape Verde

The approach was dramatic with incredible mountain ranges. It took a little longer to actually get there than expected after we saw them. There was a very short dolphin visit but they were busy and in a hurry to get somewhere but a pleasure to see them nonetheless.

We got tied up, said hi to our Danish neighbors (two boats on our rally) and then a shower and out to explore Mindalo of the Cape Verdes! It is very cool, we went to a couple of places to check out the local frivolity. We had a lovely evening.

The town is very colorful, and it is buzzing with life. Why do cultures lose their color when they become more affluent? This place seems to be a delicious combination of African and Portuguese culture.

We found a gorgeous beach nearby and spent the afternoon there with the families on the two Danish boats. It was fun to go for a swim, pick seashells and run around and play football. The sense of community on the rally is fabulous. Two German boats are here as well and they came by with hugs and checking on our spreader. We are talking about all leaving together.

All the while, we were giving our attention to the boat and the repairs that need doing. Our crew have been amazing and generous with their time. The spreader issue turned out to be a false alarm but there was still work to do up there. Jon and Kevin worked on that. Tina has been repairing our snubber, she has been splicing it. The ball bearings we found on the deck halfway between Tenerife and Cape Verde turned out to be the car that holds the pole to pin out the sail from here to Barbados. We are considering the timing very lucky since we could fix it here. We could not get the parts we needed, but Kevin and Jon came up with a solution and a Plan B. Plan A is complete, using new ball bearings and epoxy. It was a long process and Kevin and Jon worked together on it.

Tina and I started on the decks which had sections that needed recaulking. When the decks are 19 years old, the caulking lifts in long strips and can lead to potential leaks into our living space. We hope we are not taking advantage of our crew, but this is the first conducive weather we have had in two months and with high seas we were concerned every time we saw waves over the decks. It took most of the day, finishing up with head torches. Tina and I did a lot of the prep, removing the old stuff and scraping and cleaning the areas and then taping the sides. Later I was caulking, Jon was removing the tape. This job is really messy, and Kevin was always there with some paper towels or trash bag as we worked our way around, he even cleaned up Teo when he stepped in the stuff! We were worn out when we left the boat for dinner.

We continue to do chores like shopping and laundry and then treated ourselves to a tour of the island. Our guide, Felix, took us up to the highest point where all the telephone masts and TV antennae are, and we enjoyed the view but also checked out the grasshoppers, ladybirds, and butterflies. The winding road up was steep and full of hairpin turns, sharp cliffs down thousands of feet and tall rocky peaks into the sky. Next, was a colorful village with a gorgeous beach, which is the site of an international music festival. Even though it is 30 degrees C, it is winter here and place was deserted except for some fishermen who showed us their catch. We stopped at a sand dune with honey golden sand and within seconds Tina and Teo were racing down, jumping and turning cartwheels. Felix gave us tidbits of information along the way, like how the overfishing is effecting the community and how the shark population is increasing. Just a short drive down the road was the beach hosting a surf school and Teo couldn’t hold back any longer; he threw himself into the sea fully clothed. I don’t know who was smiling wider, Teo or Felix who was giggling to himself. We went to the base of a volcano and saw a blow hole before heading back to Mindelo. The trip back was also full of photo ops with kids walking home from school, windmills and farmland with papayas and bananas and a spider city. Felix grabbed one to show us they were harmless. Every country has their issues with their government, but it feels heavy to see the new housing standing there ready for people to move in, and then to be told they never have the right paperwork. From what he was telling us the Cape Verde people are very happy with their lives and feel in their hearts they are African, Portuguese and pull for the Brazilians when it comes to football.

The remainder of the Atlantic Odyssey fleet have been discussing when to leave and, after some debate, we agreed to leave on Saturday at noon. In the last week we’ve met many other lovely boat crews who are also planning on leaving on the same day, so it should be a fun start! With the leaving day set we then go started working on the last few preparations, filling with fuel, topping up water, a trip to the market for fresh fruit and a couple of runs to a supermarket for more basics.

In the last few days Teo has also had the pleasure of many more boat kids coming around, along with the six kids from the two Danish boats from the rally, we’ve also had the company of two lovely girls from Emerald Bay, a boy and a girl from Blue Zulu and others we met in Santa Cruz.

So we’re ready as we’ll ever be and all have Itchy Feet.

Meeting some Great Kids

Written by Mia:

We have mentioned the lovely friends we have been making along the way and how these people have been making all the difference with their support and generosity. And now we have also been lucky enough to start meeting more boats with kids. Teo has had a ball!

A marinera is Spanish for the person who works for a marina who does lots of different jobs around the place but often meets boats at their designated spaces and takes lines and takes lines to help incoming boats get the boat moored safely. One morning the very friendly marinera was waiting across from our slot and asked Teo to help him catch lines for the incoming boat. Teo was full of proud smiles and then the icing on that cake was the four (and a half) year old that was on that boat.

The boys spent the next few days dividing their time pretty evenly between Lego on Itchy Foot and playing on their boat – Go Beyond. Teo slowly began to remember his Norsk as his new friend was Norwegian. We went to the beach one day all together as well and shared dinner together. The energy that kids have when they are in the company of other kids is different and so is their communication. Sini and I were talking a lot about this when she was on board and Teo should be doing a lot of his learning through play and an important element of that is interaction with other kids. We were so happy to see him together with a new friend and he was very sad when we said goodbye.

Thankfully, this time it was only a few days before we made some new friends! it is SO nice to be in the company of other cruisers. We were anchored off the lovely La Graciosa and we woke up to a new neighbour in the bay. A Belgian flagged yacht, Sta Vast was anchored close by and we knew they had young crew members on board. They had taken contact with us a week or two earlier saying that they are on the same rally and were hoping to meet up. This was a match made in heaven for Teo, a boy aged 10 and a girl aged 8. We were so excited to meet them that we quickly got Nemo in the water and went over to say hi. The kids were fast friends, there was more Lego  and even a zombie battle complete with its own theme song.

The weather in the anchorage turned bad and we were forced to move but we all went to the same marina down the coast so we could spend more time together. There was school in the morning and lots of playing in the afternoon. One day we went for a long walk altogether to find out we all have lots to chat about. There was even a sleepover on Itchy Foot with pasta, movies and popcorn and pancakes the next morning. Everyone was giggling and playing. Later, there were crafts and Teo’s ”favorite meal ever” on Sta Vast. This means there were also two sets of parents who got to have dates! I don’t think anyone even noticed all the rain we had.

Boat kid friendships are quick, probably because you never know when you might meet new small humans and also because you never know how long you will all be in the same place. it also doesn’t seem like age or gender matters as much as it does in ‘the real world’. We have been reading about the sailing kids community and have been missing it most of the summer so far, so it was a real joy to experience first hand. We are looking forward to getting to Santa Cruz to see our new friends again and also to meet more boats with kids. There are several more boats we have been in contact with whom we look forward to meeting.

One of the main reasons for choosing to cross over to the Caribbean was in search of finding more playmates for Teo. So far, so good.

Day 7: Muggy motoring

The sunshine faded, the wind died and we are motoring to Cape Verde. It is sticky and feels like it was trying to rain. We are missing the sailing, but happy the sea is relatively flat.

It’s been a quiet afternoon with some naps, some reading and some boat jobs. We finished reading the Little Prince and Jon started in on recaulking the decks. Teo did another good school session, I think it helps that he know the other kids, like Simon and Elisa on Sta Vast are doing some school, too. Slowly we are trying to get him to remember his Norwegian, too. Today his prize was a little Police vehicle he assembled himself from Stewart and Anne. These things are magic, we haven’t heard one “are we nearly there yet” yet.

More tuna steaks for dinner with incredible mash potatoes so Teo gobbled them up -you guessed it, Kevin did the cooking! It was wonderful! The night watches were uneventful, especially since we were motoring the whole way. We had pretty much constant drizzle the whole way and we turned on radar to check for squalls.

We spent the morning making a courtesy flag for Cape Verde. We arrived safely.

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Itchy Foot LOVES visitors!

Written by Mia:

We got a great message a couple of weeks ago that went something like this, “ Hey Jon, Mia and Teo, we are sitting here in our stilongs (long underwear) watching the rain and we are dreaming of a visit. Where are you on the weekend of 27-30th of October?” We got SO excited that Gunnar and Mona and Nikolaj wanted to come and visit! It is no little undertaking either with lots of flights and schedules and uncertainty, but it all worked out and we had a wonderful time together!

We sat on deck from our mooring on the end of a pontoon in Marina Lanzarote and watched their plane land.  A short hour later they were on board and we bigs were chatting like we saw each other last week and the boys were playing with Lego down below. We went exploring in the town of Arrecife on the Saturday, complete with a trip to the playground, lunch outside and short trip to the beach. We were talking about time and timing and realised that we had a boat-iversary and that it was almost exactly or actually exactly a year ago that we had the VERY EXCITING WEEK that included selling the house, becoming the owners of the boat and Mia quitting her job. Mona and Gunnar bought us a bottle of Moet and we toasted it and added the cork to the one from when we changed the name. How lovely that they were here! They really spoiled us withs stuff from Norway, Godiva, meals out and treats, very generous guests!

On Sunday we went out for a short sail to let Itchy Foot show off. Nikolaj was very excited about the foam on the water, Mona pulled lines like a boss and Gunnar was first to jump in the water for a swim when we anchored. It was a great day, the only bummer was that Mona had to leave us to get back in time for work on Monday. She jumped ashore as soon as we tied up. We got to keep Gunnar and Nikolaj until Monday morning, which meant the boys got a good run around when we got back to the marina. That made everyone happy! There were some tears when we put the boys in the taxi on Monday. We were SO happy to see them and really appreciate the effort they made to come out here to stay with us for a few days!

On the subject of making an effort, the Itchy Foot crew are feeling very blessed to have people we love make an effort to come and see us! Grandma and Granddad will be arriving in Santa Cruz about the same time as we do! We have been really looking forward to seeing them. About a week later, Jon’s cousins and Teo’s favourite play boxing mates, Michael and David are also coming to see us in Santa Cruz, as well. Again, it is really lovely they are willing to make the effort.

And in the last couple days we have been bouncing with delight as we got news that dear friends are coming to celebrate the New Year with us in Martinique. Fiona is coming all the way from Sydney and Clive from Oslo, these are big distances and complicated itineraries!! We are giggling reading the emails that bounce back and forth during the planning process, there is talk of frocks and champagne and tuxedo clad swimmers carrying ‘Milk Tray’ with painters in teeth. I CANNOT WAIT! This is just the motivation we need to gear up for our crossing.