Cruisers say that their plans are written in sand on a beach. Quite often at low tide.

Six months ago, when we decided to spend a full year in French Polynesia, we also decided to be back in the Marquesas by the middle of November, ideally earlier. We alway knew this would be a little tight, we knew we’d be down in society islands until at least mid September so it would be a rush to all the way upwind in only a couple of months. But we didn’t think we’d still be in the Tuamotus in December!

It’s not very far really, a little over 700 miles from Tahiti to the Marquesas, really if we could just point and go we could be there in 6 days. Unfortunately we can’t just point and go, boats don’t like to go upwind (and neither do their crew). And the wind in this part of the world ‘always’ blows out of the same direction, somewhere between the the North East and the South East – but mostly East. The 700 miles we have to go is entirely East North East. Or as lazy sailors call it ‘the wrong way’.

The obvious solution is to take our time and wait for a break in the weather, for wind that is in the 10% rather than the 90%. Then to make a little hop (for as long as the wind holds) closer to our destination. And so we wait, hop, wait, hop. Still we should have been there by now! And we would have been if it weren’t for an unexpected surprise – we’ve met some lovely people!

We hopped into Fakarava as one of our first stops on our trip back and as soon as we arrived we met up with some friends we’ve known for the last few months, s/v Caramba with two boys Hunter (11) and Logan (13). They are a lovely American family and the boys are a pleasure to have around. We had a day of biking with them that was really wonderful. Shortly after that s/v Larki showed up and we were introduced to their delightful family, Edith, Ken and their two girls Zoe (12) and Naomi (10). It is wonderful to spend time with this energetic and positive bunch and they have taught us so much about the sea and about cruising. And we have had a wonderful time snorkelling and hanging out with them, and Teo and Naomi are cut from the same cloth.

Then just before Halloween Caramba left for the Marquesas, the forecast didn’t look very enticing but they had time pressure to get there by a specific date so off they went. Then Debonair arrived, another fun family from the pacific coast of North America – with a boy, Arlo (15) and a girl Alma (13). They arrived just in time for trick or treating and we had a fabulous Halloween. They are good fun and have lots of cool ideas for educational outings including, outdoor art, poetry workshops and charting out a motu. We will be looking forward to catching up with them when we finally visit San Francisco!

Well, with so many great kids around it seemed crazy to leave before Halloween. And it was great! So that is how October turned into November. And then Debonair needed to leave, with visiting crew they also had time pressure to get up-to Hawaii before the end of December. But again the forecast wasn’t ideal and the remaining company was so good….  so just another week, after all Larki was going to Fanning Island soon so then we’d be alone again, perfect.

A few months earlier, we’d received a message from Blue Zulu (friends from the other side of the world – literally) who told of a crazy awesome family of Finns on a boat called Panacea. Turns out that Larki were in contact with them and they were heading our way soon. Definitely worth waiting for we say. After a couple more days Panacea showed up, Tuomo, Rikka and their three kids, Aarre (10), Kerttu (7) and Martta (6). As promised by Blue Zulu they were a boat worth waiting for and we’ve been enjoying their company immensely. Oh, how we have been missing the Finnish sense of humour and no nonsense view of the world and it was really funny to hear that we know some of the same people in Finland.

While Larki were preparing to leave and hoping the Panacea would turn up, Itchy Foot bumped into a Danish family boat, Calle II. We’d met them a couple of times earlier but never really spent any time together. We spent a couple of days getting to know them and we’re very glad we finally did, Robert and Stine have two lovely kids, Sebastian (12) and Sonia (10). We were invited over for coffee and just clicked, we really seem to speak the same language.

All the dads got together the try to fix the roller furling on Calle II which was causing them to rethink their whole cruising plan for the year. After a long day taking down the forestay, fixing the roller, and then replacing the forestay everything was fixed. And then there were four: Itchy Foot, Larki, Calle II and Panacea.

Now we all have the same plan. Get to the Marquesas and spend most of the cyclone season there. So we’ve been waiting and hoping, waiting and hoping eastwards hoping to find the perfect weather window for the 5 day ‘hop’ north east to the Marquesas. The trouble is that everywhere is so nice and the company is so good that it’s been hard to find a weather window good enough to tempt us out. Right now we’re in Makemo which is well placed to wait for the weather. But Christmas is rapidly approaching and not many family boats are very excited about the prospect of Christmas on the high seas.

So as the days skip buy merrily, weather forecasts are downloaded and discussed over coffee and cake. The kids play like siblings and there always seems to be a reason for a party, sometimes its a birthday and sometimes its because its Tuesday. There has been sampling on the beach in tents and Christmas crafts and water sports of all sorts. There are Ladies Nights and movie nights and crafts and book swapping and it is just wonderful.

Now it looks like the weather window has arrived and we should be leaving Makemo on the 16th of December. With luck and good winds it should be 5 days to the Marquesas so we’ll be arriving with a day to rest and the right into Christmas preparations. The kids have planned out a big show, with music and more. There will be fire on the beach, gifts exchanged and too much food and a fair amount of booze. In short it’s shaping up to be a good one in good company – which is what it’s all about really.