Day 13: Three down; one to go.

Fishing is not my strong suit, despite my epic beard and silly Tilley hat I’ve little (no) experience in fishing, either on a boat nor sitting in the drizzle by a brook. So I bought a book on the subject, the front cover had a picture of a man with a beard, silly hat and big fish… so that should help you narrow it down.

What appealed to me about this particular book was that the author focused on the most effective way to feed people fish on boats. It’s not about sport fishing, to the extent that he doesn’t even recommend using a rod and reel, preferring to trawl with a hand line. Armed with my new found knowledge I wandered into a little fishing shop selling to commercial fishermen in Spain’s Tuna fishing capital – Barbate.

The proprietor took one look at me and promptly laid out the everything I would need with almost little or no prompting. Pausing only briefly at the end of our conversation to inform me that I would catch tuna with this, no problem. For around 80 euros I got, 50m of 150lb (75kg) monofilament, a yoyo (hand lining reel), three 8inch lures, high quality swivels, a Finish filleting knife (they make the best, so i learned) and a few other technical doodads.

The setup is fairly simple. Take a large squid lure with a big hook on a wire leader. Attach swivels to either end of 10m of monofilament (the strong the better). Attach on end of the monofilament line to the leader of the lure. Attach the other end to 5m of very strong end stretchy shock cord which is tied to somewhere on the back of the boat. Throw the above into the sea. Wait. Wait. Panic ‘cos you caught a fish!

The challenge I discovered is what to do next. Getting the fish back onboard requires a gaff (hook on stick), killing the fish requires squirting gin into their gills (surprisedly quick way to go), then you need to cut it up. After my first attempt to fillet a fish on the back of a moving boat Mia bought me a pair of cut proof butchers gloves.

Anyway, all this worked well, we caught fish, it was tasty and huge. Then we left Cape Verdes and in three days we lost three of our four lures. The first was a broken line – something big applied more than 75kg of force to the line. The second was a broken metal wire – I’ve no idea what that breaks at, so I’m thinking the crimped loop in the end pulled out. Finally, something really big bet the cheaper metal connectors that I picked up at a less reputable tackle shop – but still check the photo!

In response I upped my game. The final lure went into the sea with three 75kg lines on the whole run – triple the breaking load. Bring it on. We even attached an empty 5lt water bottle at the end of the line – I was inspired by Jaws.

The good news is that within a few hours we had a bite and a nice little 3kg mahi-mahi was our for the eating. Kevin will be cooking her up for dinner tonight and whatever monster was out there is still out there.

In other news we knocked off another 150 miles in the last 24 hours.

Day 12: Food preparations

There are as many strategies for provisioning and food preparations as there are boats crossing the Atlantic. Everyone seems to have very strong opinions and are not shy to share them. Some boats leave each person to fend for themselves, others live off tins and dry food only, but most plan either to cook underway or prepare in advance and freeze or vacuum seal things. Thank goodness we fixed the freezer in Addaya in July, we filled it!

Like most of the other family boats, Tina and Katrina and I did a few rounds of shopping. We went to Carrefour early to stock up our stores and to shop for things for cooking. We went to the market for eggs, fruit and vegetables. Both delivered these things straight to the boat. When we had everything put away, we went back for snacks and treats to fill all the storage spaces. We were full to bursting and we still weren’t sure we had enough, because enough also means the correct combination of things.

We started out cooking on board but there are a few problems with this, we have a space shortage, the freezer takes a few days to freeze something solid, and the space where we could prep food is in the main thoroughfare of the boats and Jon and Kevin were fixing things so they were often needing to get through. To save time Tina and I booked an AirBnB to use their kitchen, and while we were there, the washing machine, too. We were invited to use Gus and Elena’s home. It was beautiful and well stocked and the roof top terrace was a giant drying rack. Tina and I made nine different meals for five people and froze them in their freezer. We washed three loads of laundry and all the while had a wonderful time chatting to each other and to Gus who kept things moving by pouring us cava and entertained us. It was fabulous 🙂

Cooking and freezing meals is great for passages and has been working really well. We just choose something from the freezer in the morning. Another thing we prepared before we left was bread in a bag. (It is much easier to measure flour, baking powder and other ingredients when the boat isn’t moving much.) We have been using these almost daily and first the smell of fresh bread and then the taste of the finished product really boost the mood!

We keep bragging about how well we eat and it is largely because of this prep work.

By the way, we clocked another 140 nautical miles today. The sea got a bit rougher when we turned west and we are feeling it, especially when we try to cook something or do the washing up because things are sliding around everywhere.

Day 11: TNT Burger Boat

Another 150 nautical miles behind us and the wind and the waves seem to be coming from the same direction so the ride is a lot more comfortable. We have been fishing but are now down three lures in three days! Jon is determined to get a photo of the sea monster that can chew crimping and snap steel line. We should have stocked up on lures in Mindelo!

Comment from Jon: Whatever is taking our lures is big enough to break 75kg line, steel wire leader crimps and metal swivel shackles respectively. With one big lure left we’re tripling up everything… 225kg of lines. Bring it on.

We continue to have gourmet galley conditions and last night was another highlight! Teo and Tina had opening night of TNT Burger Boat and this is sure to take the world by storm! We had veggie burgers with homemade chips of butternut squash, carrots and potatoes and homemade tatziki. It was incredibly delicious!

Last night we had a magical dolphin show! It was amazing to watch them play at the bow covered in phosphorescent algae, it was like watching stardust. We could see them glowing silver under the water as they swam from one side of the bow to the other and back again. It was a clear sky filled with stars and we saw shooting stars as well. We were mesmerized.

This morning was quiet, but we had breakfast together and have been in contact with Freja, Gorm den Gamle and Anyway. We are now heading WEST and Jon is celebrating reaching the 13 degree latitude by breaking out a Hawaiian shirt, stay tuned for the picture!

Day 10: Surprise number 1

Today we clocked 100 nautical miles and are also currently in visual view of our three buddy boats. It’s nice to have their lights keeping us company at night. The wind was a bit light overnight and the sails complained a little. We like to have HAPPY sails and a HAPPY Arthur (our autohelm).

The sun kept us company most of the afternoon and we had another very short dolphin visit. We will hold out for a longer visit tomorrow, and we also hope to catch another fish.

Before we left Santa Cruz, we agreed to each plan a surprise. It is something I learned from a friend that skis across Greenland every spring…thanks Bjørn! Tina unveiled her surprise this afternoon. She brought beads and cord and letters to make bracelets. It was fun and kept us amused for hours.

For dinner we tucked into the freezer and made veggie lasagna that was out of this world! Before we left, we used Gus and Elena’s kitchen to make and freeze meals for our trip. It was a fun and exhausting day and it is paying off now!

Teo used the VHF radio to warn the other boats to look out for squalls. He called them, “little storms that sneak up on you”. Everyone promised they would pay close attention.

We did a great school session this morning and Teo was singing a song that was mostly, “school is fun, and I love it” which is music to this mamma’s ears.

A little short of wind so not very many miles in the last 24h, but we’re getting there!

Day 9: Hanging in There, and Hanging On

We logged 130 nautical miles and our little fleet have been sticking together. It’s nice to hear how everyone is getting on and Hakuna Matata play us their song every day. Plus the kids check on each other on the VHF radio. We had a nice sunshiny afternoon and there was some napping because none of us slept great the night before. We saw some sea birds and continue to try to help with the research (www.birdingaboard.org) but it is hard to get decent photographs. We also had a micro visit from dolphins, we believe they are coming back tomorrow. Also, the fish are waiting for tomorrow which is nice because it is too rolly to clean them…

I would like to share Teo’s radio call just now. “This is Itchy Foot, we are having a party onboard with flashing lights and everything. Everyone is invited. I repeat, nevermind. OVER”. I am not sure the RYA would approve, but it is a start.

I think everyone has been stealing a little extra sleep, keeping your balance with all the rocking and rolling takes its toll… This morning we listened to loud music and Jon made bread, yum yum, the smell of fresh baking bread is divine!! We are working our way through the melon carnage so it was banana pancakes and Elvis specials (grilled banana and peanut butter sandwiches) for lunch. I don’t think any of us will be gaunt by the time we arrive.

Attached is a picture Teo drew of all the boats in out little fleet, Barbados 50, Fleet 3.

Day 8: On your marks…again…

We really liked what we saw of the Cape Verde islands, and it was wonderful to enjoy a taste of Africa. Also it was amazing to have so many kids around for Teo to play with, he spent lots of time with the kids from Gorm den Gamle and Freya. They visited each other, had movie dates and we even went to the beach. When it was hard to match Danish and English they played LEGO or Minecraft or did some fishing. And we also finally connected with kids from Emerald Bay, Blue Zulu and Dana de Mer which was great because English made it easier for Teo to talk to kids his own age as well. We had another trip to the beach and we had a ball swimming with the dogs and making survival bracelets. Teo is spending time with so many amazing kids!

As much as we liked the place and all the fun we had, the wind forecast was good and it was time to go! We arranged to leave with four other boats (Freya, Gorm den Gamle, Anyway and Hakuna Matata) at noon, our Atlantic Odyssey, Take Two. Emerald Bay, Blue Zulu and Dana de Mer had similar plans and we hope to see more of them over there!

Our first day was mostly unsettled winds, confused seas and more bumps and bruises. It is very nice to have contact with the other boats and we spoke about sail configuration and our routes. It’s fun to be in contact and at night to see everyone’s lights. The unsettled sea state also pushed the melons too far and they beat up all the other fruit and veg in the net. A papaya took it particularly badly and exploded everywhere. The melons have been separated and are having a time out until they can learn to behave and play nicely with others.

We had some wind shifts in the night but are back on a good course this morning. We have just put out our fishing line and checked our progress which is drum roll please…130 nautical miles in the last (a little less than) 24 hours

A week in Mindalo, Cape Verde

The approach was dramatic with incredible mountain ranges. It took a little longer to actually get there than expected after we saw them. There was a very short dolphin visit but they were busy and in a hurry to get somewhere but a pleasure to see them nonetheless.

We got tied up, said hi to our Danish neighbors (two boats on our rally) and then a shower and out to explore Mindalo of the Cape Verdes! It is very cool, we went to a couple of places to check out the local frivolity. We had a lovely evening.

The town is very colorful, and it is buzzing with life. Why do cultures lose their color when they become more affluent? This place seems to be a delicious combination of African and Portuguese culture.

We found a gorgeous beach nearby and spent the afternoon there with the families on the two Danish boats. It was fun to go for a swim, pick seashells and run around and play football. The sense of community on the rally is fabulous. Two German boats are here as well and they came by with hugs and checking on our spreader. We are talking about all leaving together.

All the while, we were giving our attention to the boat and the repairs that need doing. Our crew have been amazing and generous with their time. The spreader issue turned out to be a false alarm but there was still work to do up there. Jon and Kevin worked on that. Tina has been repairing our snubber, she has been splicing it. The ball bearings we found on the deck halfway between Tenerife and Cape Verde turned out to be the car that holds the pole to pin out the sail from here to Barbados. We are considering the timing very lucky since we could fix it here. We could not get the parts we needed, but Kevin and Jon came up with a solution and a Plan B. Plan A is complete, using new ball bearings and epoxy. It was a long process and Kevin and Jon worked together on it.

Tina and I started on the decks which had sections that needed recaulking. When the decks are 19 years old, the caulking lifts in long strips and can lead to potential leaks into our living space. We hope we are not taking advantage of our crew, but this is the first conducive weather we have had in two months and with high seas we were concerned every time we saw waves over the decks. It took most of the day, finishing up with head torches. Tina and I did a lot of the prep, removing the old stuff and scraping and cleaning the areas and then taping the sides. Later I was caulking, Jon was removing the tape. This job is really messy, and Kevin was always there with some paper towels or trash bag as we worked our way around, he even cleaned up Teo when he stepped in the stuff! We were worn out when we left the boat for dinner.

We continue to do chores like shopping and laundry and then treated ourselves to a tour of the island. Our guide, Felix, took us up to the highest point where all the telephone masts and TV antennae are, and we enjoyed the view but also checked out the grasshoppers, ladybirds, and butterflies. The winding road up was steep and full of hairpin turns, sharp cliffs down thousands of feet and tall rocky peaks into the sky. Next, was a colorful village with a gorgeous beach, which is the site of an international music festival. Even though it is 30 degrees C, it is winter here and place was deserted except for some fishermen who showed us their catch. We stopped at a sand dune with honey golden sand and within seconds Tina and Teo were racing down, jumping and turning cartwheels. Felix gave us tidbits of information along the way, like how the overfishing is effecting the community and how the shark population is increasing. Just a short drive down the road was the beach hosting a surf school and Teo couldn’t hold back any longer; he threw himself into the sea fully clothed. I don’t know who was smiling wider, Teo or Felix who was giggling to himself. We went to the base of a volcano and saw a blow hole before heading back to Mindelo. The trip back was also full of photo ops with kids walking home from school, windmills and farmland with papayas and bananas and a spider city. Felix grabbed one to show us they were harmless. Every country has their issues with their government, but it feels heavy to see the new housing standing there ready for people to move in, and then to be told they never have the right paperwork. From what he was telling us the Cape Verde people are very happy with their lives and feel in their hearts they are African, Portuguese and pull for the Brazilians when it comes to football.

The remainder of the Atlantic Odyssey fleet have been discussing when to leave and, after some debate, we agreed to leave on Saturday at noon. In the last week we’ve met many other lovely boat crews who are also planning on leaving on the same day, so it should be a fun start! With the leaving day set we then go started working on the last few preparations, filling with fuel, topping up water, a trip to the market for fresh fruit and a couple of runs to a supermarket for more basics.

In the last few days Teo has also had the pleasure of many more boat kids coming around, along with the six kids from the two Danish boats from the rally, we’ve also had the company of two lovely girls from Emerald Bay, a boy and a girl from Blue Zulu and others we met in Santa Cruz.

So we’re ready as we’ll ever be and all have Itchy Feet.